Mission Karen-Shan – Arrival in Thailand – Post 1
To learn about the Burma mission, please view the mission scope post here: http://teamrubiconusa.org/2011-project-karen-shan-mission-scope/
Day 1 – Friday – Arrival
We all traveled from different parts of the United States, Doctor Geelhoed from Maryland, Zach Smith from Sacramento, Jason Jarvis from Seattle, Andrew Stevens from Anchorage, and myself (Marc Fiorito) from San Francisco. We convened on a Monday in Los Angeles to prep and pre-brief the mission at hand. Zach went over logistics, Jason reviewed powerpoint presentations, I recharged our sat phone and BGAN. We had 20 hours to sort the rest of the medical inventory, test our comm kit, and wrap our heads around the upcoming mountain of a mission that we were about to endure. We departed from LAX Tuesday night.
LAX -> HNL -> NAIA
During our 5-hour layover in Manila we cabbed it over to the Manila American Cemetery to pay our respect to the brave heroes that lost their lives in WWII.
NAIA -> BKK
In Bangkok we crossed paths with TR’s Co-Founder William McNulty. We chatted mission details over beer and crispy duck. The Bangkok airport is a unique blend of new meets old – massive steel canopies contain towering Yaksha demon warriors statues.
BKK -> CNX.
The sweet early evening air filled our nostrils as we stepped onto the tarmac, a final assurance that we had finally arrived in Chiang Mai and reached checkpoint alpha. We were greeted by our Thai/Burma coordinator Rob. Jumping into his Toyota Hilux, we packed the bed with eight bags of medical supplies and personal gear. Add in six large men and it was a tight fit for all. Stevens and I hunkered down in the bed of the truck and braced ourselves for a three-hour high-speed ride into Maesariang.
Scents of fried street vendor food and elephant dung filled our nostrils as we moved in fast-forward. Our lives were precariously in the hands of an ex-LA movie industry professional turned Thai river-restaurant owner. Rob has been working with TR for the past year coordinating medical and educational support for Thai-Burma border relief. He originally intended to produce a documentary on the current Burmese condition, but instead quickly focused his attention on procuring aid. Rob realized the situation was more dire than simply calling attention to it with a camera.
We carved the mountain roads and climbed in elevation, deeper and further into the lush Thai jungle. Temperatures dropped and the nightly rains commenced. Andrew and I clutched to the bags as we pitched hard left and right with each turn. Zach, Glenn, and Jason caught some shut-eye in the cab. It was close to 2300 when we arrived at Rob’s restaurant, which jutted over Maesariang’s turbulent Yuam River. A corner of the restaurant’s thin particleboard deck sagged, supported by bowed beams that were burdened from rain storms.
We promptly sat down to discuss the mission at hand. Food and beer arrived. While we feasted on fried fish, spicy fried pork balls, rice, and soup, Rob took us through the mission details.
We planned to depart the following afternoon, first via truck, then boat, then foot, then boat, then foot again. We were all anxious to leave; anticipation levels were high. After retiring to the Northwest Guest house around 0100, we collapsed in our rooms for some desperately needed sleep. We had been traveling for 96 hours.
Day 2 – Saturday – Prep and Depart Maesariang
Waking up in a new country, on the floor, tucked under a mosquito net will take some getting used to, but I’m assuming these accommodations will be luxury compared to what we’ll see in the camps. We headed to the outdoor market for breakfast and took in the local scenery. Jason, having spent some time in Thailand on a previous endeavor, brushed up on his Thai language skills and acquired some fruit and scrambled egg/condensed milk crepes. Delicious. Maesariang sits on the eastern bank of the Yuam River and acts as a small trading outpost for Mae Saem Laep and Burma and sees very few tourists. At the height of 6’7” Jason Jarvis was a striking sight to many locals who on occasion stopped cold in their tracks.
We regrouped around 1100, jumped in the back of another truck (reoccurring theme) and headed to a local Buddhist Monastery to be blessed with safe travels for our impending departure. We were each given an amulet as the monk prayed for our safety.
The monastery overlooked rice fields and the entrance was about 100 feet tall. It was lined with various Buddha’s ranging in size from 6 inches to 30ft.
After a meditative (and contemplative) morning we headed back to the guesthouse and packed up our belongings. The afternoon was approaching and it was time to move.
The journey to our final push-off checkpoint was riddled with hazards. Excessive rainfall and massive rivers had caused damage to most of the roadways. Zach and I traveled in the bed of the truck surveying the passing embankments and trying to avoid sudden spinal compression.
We passed through many small villages located on the Salween River which serves as the borderline of northern Karen State in eastern Burma and Mae Hong Song Province in Thailand. Merchants line the streets selling everything from tires to toothbrushes. The Salween River flows like a lava bed – rapid but viscous. Entire trees would float by then twirl in the chocolate colored eddies like small twigs. The river was up almost eight meters and it looked angry.
In 2002 during similar conditions, a refugee camp just 4 km up the Salween River was devastated by a flash flood that killed 26 and destroyed over 250 houses.
The afternoon rain was relentless. We put some new Triple Aught Design gear through the wringer and their schoeller Stealth LTs were our new best friends. The truck stopped about a click past the market. We quickly unloaded bags and followed our guide down a winding, muddy footpath. Stilted houses hugged the side of the dirt bank. With slippery conditions and 60lbs. of gear each, we slid down in one-foot sections. Families sat sheltered on their stoop expressionless as we passed. A subdued bass tone that deepened and strengthened with every couple meters became more and more audible. When we broke through the trees we saw our new mode of transport. Both amazing and ridiculous, the longboats were propelled by V8 truck engines with a straight exhaust strapped to an 8-meter long prop/rudder.
Being on a longboat in a swift and swollen river against the current has a way of instilling fear and forcing you to trust your driver. Everything seemed to be moving twice as fast and we clung to the western bank to narrowly avoid head on collisions with trees, leaves, and garbage that were funneling down the center of the river.
After a three-hour truck ride and then another three hours by three separate boats, we had made it to our next rendezvous point. We can call this place home for the next five days. Courses and lectures start promptly tomorrow morning as we move forward with our mission goals and greet our students. On the menu for dinner: fried egg and noodles.
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